A three hour tour...

So yes, I met President Bush yesterday. It was pretty cool, though not as cool as what you might have seen on TV. You see, we weren’t invited to the ceremony with Benin’s President Yayi Boni (that's who I really wanted to meet). We didn’t see President Bush get presented with a sash and a medal, or get to watch the children perform for him…oh, no. We were all in another room, in another part of the airport, waiting two hours while all that stuff took place elsewhere. Members of the embassy staff, Peace Corps staff and volunteers, Fulbright scholars, etc. were all invited to a “meet & greet” AFTER the formal ceremonies took place. Mind you, we didn’t know what we were missing until we saw the news later last night; we just figured he was conferring with Yayi Boni. Ca va…

Still, like I said, it was pretty cool. They had a room set up with a podium, flags, etc. (see photo) in front of a blue curtain. When GWB was done with his other activities, he came over to thank all of us – who, after all, are in Benin representing the United States – for being here, far from home, enduring hardships so that he can brag about how much the US cares about Africa. OK, that might not be exactly what he said, but he did thank us for doing what we’re doing. He talked about the US commitment to Africa, which has been greater under his watch than under any other president in recent memory (i.e., ever). Through programs like PEPFAR (President’s Emergency Program for AIDS Reduction), PMI (President’s Malaria Initiative) and Millennium Challenge, Africa has made enormous strides over the last few years; much of it as a result of aid from the US. Obviously, they aren’t out of the woods, yet. But it’s getting better, and Benin is a prime example of that.

[BTW, as an aside, there are proposals in both houses of Congress right now to reduce the funding levels for the Millennium Challenge Corporation. I know that in the paradigm of beltway insiders, appropriations often become the battleground for partisan politics. There are, however, occasions when such infighting does a concrete disservice to our country and to the world. I believe this is just such an occasion. Reducing the funding levels for MCC would be like cutting off the Republicans’ nose to spite the face of the entire developing world. If this country needs anything right now, it needs initiatives that will restore our standing with the international community. I can tell you from my experience here that MCC is just such a program. Please, encourage your Senators and Congresspersons to support continued FULL funding for Millennium Challenge. It is by far the best thing to come out of the Bush White House and it would be a disgrace if it became the victim of partisan sniping. OK, off my soapbox.]

Back to the presidential visit. I was attired in a traditional Beninese three-piece bumba (see photo) complete with a multi-colored fez. When I say traditional, it is traditional Muslim attire in Benin. As the president reached out to shake my hand, I took his hand and said, “As salaam aleykum, Mr. President.” This is a traditional Arabic greeting that means, “Peace be with you.” This is a very popular greeting in many parts of Benin, and not wholly inappropriate I felt. I had decided to greet him that way to perhaps elicit a moment’s thought from him as he went through the motions of walking the rope line.

His reply, which caught me somewhat off-guard, was, “You must be a Peace Corps volunteer!”

Now right away I’m thinking, “How did he know that? Was it the clothes? The hat maybe? Was it somehow the fact that I spoke to him in a language that isn’t indigenous to either Benin or the United States? What?”

What I said was, “Yes, sir, I am.”

“Do ya love it here?” he asked next.

“Yeah,” I told him, “most of the time. It’s hard. But most of the time I do.”

“Well, thanks for everything yer doin’.” And then he was off to shake the next hand.

I must say he seemed very authentic, down-to-earth and approachable; very easy to talk to. I’m sure that’s why he was elected twice. After that I shook hands with and spoke to Mrs. Bush (who asked where I was from) and Condaleeza Rice (who asked what my work was with Peace Corps; we talked briefly about MCC). They ALL made a point to shake hands with and greet every single person in the room, Americans and Beninese alike. When they finished, the president stood for two group photos with us and then they were off to get back on the plane and head for Tanzania. All told I think they spent about three hours in Benin…all at the airport.

So..."Bon voyage, Mr. President." Don't let the door hit you on the way out!

Travelogue

First, my apologies for not posting for so long. The holidays, my safari trip, in-service training and a bout of intestinal parasites have all conspired to keep me away from the internet for much longer than I anticipated. I am on the mend and things are on the upswing here in Cotonou. For me, things are settling into a routine, so there is less that seems “exciting” to write about. For you, of course, that is far less apparent; so my silence can be misinterpreted as something more ominous. Rest assured that all is well here and I am OK.

Second, I want to say an ENORMOUS “Thank You!” to everyone for the packages, cards, letters, emails and all the other demonstrations of love and support you sent my way over the holidays. I got some before I began my travels and some didn’t arrive until I returned, but all were received very gratefully. It was difficult to hold onto the spirit of the holidays in the African heat, but it helped to have a copy of “A Child’s Christmas in Wales” to bring it all back. (Thank you, Julie!)

So let me begin with a bit of a travelogue. I left Cotonou on the 22nd of December for my first real trip into Benin. First stop was the village of Tchaourou (CHA-roo) where my new good friends Steve and Jaren are posted. It also happens to be the hometown of the President of Benin, Dr. Thomas Boni Yayi. As a result, Tchaourou is a really nice town. It has facilities that you would expect in a much larger city, including excellent drainage and garbage collection. Steve and Jaren live right on the outskirts, a stone’s throw from the president’s compound. (They actually met him on their first day in town. He was doing a walkabout and saw two white people walking toward him and stopped to greet them.) I spent two very relaxed days there sitting under the mango tree, drinking cold beer and eating grilled meat. Steve had the metal fabrication shop across the road make him an oil drum-sized grill and we christened it very well.

From there I went north to Parakou (PAIR-a-koo), which is the 2nd largest city in Benin. PC has a workstation there and that’s where I spent Christmas. There were a few other volunteers there but not nearly as many as I expected, so it was pretty chill. We made curry and stir-fry and had movie night on the workstation DVD player. The next day I left for Natitingou to meet up with the safari crew. There ended up being eight of us and unfortunately the guide had wrecked his 4x4 a few days earlier. He managed to find a vehicle, but only half the seats were on the outside, so some people had a not-so-clear view. It was still pretty awesome.

Parc Pendjari was not what I expected. I assumed it would be much more developed and commercial than it turned out to be. With the exception of the hotel where we stayed, which itself was fairly basic, the only other structures inside the park were a couple of viewing platforms that had been erected near some watering areas. Those and the roads were the only signs of human presence in the park. For the most part, the wildlife ignored us and went about their normal routines. We saw pretty much everything EXCEPT cats. No lions, no cheetahs but just about everything else: elephants, hippos, buffalos, more antelope (and the like) than you could count, crocodiles, baboons and other primates, a python (sorry, no pics), a tortoise and a ton of amazing birds. Pendjari contains areas of all the different climates and topographies of Benin. There are savannah-like plains, there are more dry desert-like areas, there are areas of tropical vegetation along the northern border (up against the Niger River), so you get both an abundance and a variety of wildlife. It was fascinating to move through all of these areas over the course of a single day. A selection of the best pictures is available at the link below.

http://washington.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2225413&l=1eb76&id=10713384

The highlight of the trip was probably the buffalo stampede. Early on the morning of the second day we headed out toward the river hoping to see buffalos and/or the lions that sometimes feed on them. As we followed the road around a curve in the river there was a herd of at least a hundred buffalo just off the road to our right. We stopped the truck as a few of them looked around and saw us. They weren’t very happy about it. After a few seconds they were all looking our direction and some were moving toward us. Then they started charging toward us and all the others followed. When they were about 20 yards away our guide blew the horn on the truck and they swung away from us and stampeded across the road in front of us, coming to rest again in a field about 50 yards away. I actually have about a minute worth of video from my digital camera of them turning away and running across the road. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to transfer it off of the memory card yet, but I’m working on it.

The other really adventurous part was trying to put eight people into one hotel room. And when I say room what I mean is a large rondavel – a round hut with a conical peaked roof containing one large bed and a sink. Needless to say, several of us got to test out our sleeping pads and air mattresses. But, hey, it was all part of the bonding experience that is Peace Corps.

I spent New Year’s back in Cotonou with a few other volunteers – very low key – and shortly thereafter started feeling ill whenever I ate. This is not all that uncommon around here so I did nothing at first. Cycles of relative wellness and illness lasting a couple of days each became routine as we got into the middle of January. Our in-service training (IST) was scheduled to start on the 21st in Parakou and I had made big plans for a birthday bash in Tchaourou (which is on the way from Cotonou to Parakou) for Saturday the 19th. About 15 PCVs from all over Benin – mostly my stage-mates, but some other folks, too – descended on Tchaourou for grilled meat, wood-fired pizza and much beer. A fine time was had by all. That was also the last day before I got really sick.

I won’t disgust you with the details, but suffice it to say that I had an intestinal parasite that made my life both uncomfortable and difficult. It wasn’t real great for my companions, either. Luckily the PC Medical Officer was in Parakou for the first day of our training and was able to diagnose my malady and arrange for the correct medication before she left town. So now, happily, I am much better now and back to my daily routine which is not much different from that of many of you. I will say more about that in my next update, which will be MUCH sooner than this one – I promise.